Next week I’m going to New York for the fourth time in my life — not as a tourist, but to attend a wedding in the city.
When I tell most people this is my fourth visit, they’re often surprised and assume it must be my favourite city in the world. It isn’t. You’ll always be my Number 1: Las Vegas gives a cheeky wink and mouths “call me.”
Still, I’ve visited the Big Apple several times, and I wanted to reflect on those trips and why I keep coming back. I’ll also try to dispel the myth that New York never sleeps — it does, though the rats seem to have different ideas, as we discovered on trip number two.
My First Trip – Aged 9
| I think the Minnie Mouse purse adds a certain je ne sais quoi |
This was my first long-haul holiday and only the second time I’d flown. My parents booked a tour that included New York, Washington, Philadelphia and Niagara Falls. I was beyond excited. Having grown up watching American sitcoms and cartoons, I’d built up an image of the US as Disney World, diners and long roads lined with Chevys. New York, of course, had to be the best — FAO Schwarz alone was reason enough.
We split from the tour early on to visit friends of my parents who lived in New Jersey. They showed us the tourist highlights but also took us around Chinatown and Little Italy and to their favourite local eateries. I was amazed and enthralled. We took the Staten Island Ferry, visited Ellis Island, climbed the Empire State Building and made a pilgrimage to FAO Schwarz.
Our hotel backed onto one of the Twin Towers, and with the jet lag we spent nights watching office workers through lit windows across the way. It’s a strange, sad feeling to look back at that area now.
Two memories stand out from that trip: trying Dunkin’ Donuts for the first time and my mum commenting that, even at nine, I was taller than most of the waiters in Little Italy. Either the waiters were very small or I was alarmingly tall. I’m pretty sure it wasn’t me.
This trip sparked my love of travel. You could say New York ruined me for ordinary holidays, or maybe it was the creamy spaghetti carbonara in Little Italy — either way, I was hooked. The rest of the tour had its moments, but nothing compared to the teddy bear temptations at FAO Schwarz. Damn you, Mr Teddy, and your jaunty hat.
My Second Trip – Aged 15
| Poor Albert Einstein… |
This trip happened through sheer luck. My school organised a trip to New York, Washington and Philadelphia. My parents refused to pay because I’d already been, but my best friend signed up, and I couldn’t miss out. Initially there were no spare places, but a few months before departure the teacher found an extra spot and offered it to me.
We stayed at the YMCA — my first hostel experience. The rooms were tiny, but we had a blast running down corridors in our nighties and trying to get to the bathroom before the boys saw us. My best friend and I shared a bunk because we couldn’t figure out how to turn off the arctic air conditioning; we huddled together for warmth until we found the switch. Who knew an off switch could be so elusive?
We did the usual tourist shopping — buying things that were available back home but somehow felt cooler because we’d bought them in the States. I probably bought more useless souvenirs on that trip than on any other.
That holiday remains one of the best I’ve had. The silly moments and midnight giggles with friends made it unforgettable. We may have been awkward teenagers, but we felt incredibly cool while navigating the city on our own terms.
My Third Trip – Aged 22
| Where’s that Minnie Mouse purse when you need it? |
Seven years later I returned for a week. In hindsight a week was too long for a third visit if you’re not staying with a local — the Empire State Building felt a little tired the second or third time around.
This trip was devoted to eating — a lot of eating — and some drinking. I rowed a boat on the lake in Central Park, watched The Producers on Broadway (we somehow scored second-row seats the morning of the show), visited the zoo and waved to Lady Liberty for a third time to make sure she hadn’t moved on without me.
The trip was enjoyable, but not the best. I was travelling with someone who had never been before but wasn’t very adventurous, so we ended up repeating familiar sights rather than discovering new corners of the city. That felt a bit limiting after having seen much of the main attractions already.
Each trip so far has shown me a different side of New York. I’ve been a child, a giddy teenager, and a twenty-something returning with a slightly different perspective. Despite those changes, I’ve rarely pushed far beyond the obvious highlights to uncover the city’s lesser-known secrets. On this next visit I hope to explore more deeply and rediscover the neighborhoods I haven’t yet properly known.
And yes, I’ll probably say hello to Lady Liberty again — she’s probably wondering where I’ve been. I’m ready for you, New York. See you soon. And Mr Teddy — damn you.