When most people picture Italian food they think of Rome, Florence, Venice, or Naples — Piedmont rarely comes to mind. Yet each Italian region has its own culinary identity, and Piedmont, in the northwest, is celebrated for exceptional wines and a distinct cuisine. Before my recent meal at Osteria Langhe, a restaurant that opened near Logan Square last year, I knew Piedmont mainly for its wines. That dinner proved a delightful introduction to Piemontese cooking, perfectly timed since I’ll be spending a few days in Piedmont next week tasting wine, hunting for truffles, and sampling local dishes.
I dined with friends and fellow food writers Alex, Brett, and Erica, and we ordered liberally — the dishes were too tempting to skip. Upon arrival we were welcomed by Aldo Zaninotto, the restaurant’s owner, who shared his personal story. His parents ran an Italian restaurant in Belgium, and Aldo always dreamed of opening his own place. In 2014 he founded Osteria Langhe to introduce Chicago diners to the flavors of Piedmont. He explained the menu changes frequently but that a few classic dishes remain constants.
We began with a traditional Piemontese starter recommended by Aldo: vitello tonnato. At Osteria Langhe this arrived as tender poached beef dressed with a tuna, citrus, and caper aioli, accompanied by a scotch egg. Chef Cameron Grant, who brings a Scottish background to the kitchen, adds thoughtful touches to the antipasti. The beef was moist and the creamy aioli complemented it beautifully.
The tajarin al tartufo nero featured very thin fresh pasta bathed in a creamy fontina sauce, finished with truffle shavings and a sunny-side-up egg. The bold flavors of fontina, truffle, and egg yolk balanced one another without overwhelming the dish. I especially enjoyed the texture of the delicate noodles, which held the sauce perfectly.
The polipo — grilled octopus served with a chilled leek and potato crema — gained charred flavor from grilling but was first sous-vide, resulting in an uncommonly tender texture. Octopus can often be rubbery, but this preparation was soft and flavorful.
Our unanimous favorite was the plin: small hand-pinched ravioli filled with la tur, Parmesan, thyme, and butter. The simplicity of pasta, cheese, butter, and herb came alive on the plate. La tur is a traditional Piedmontese cheese made from a blend of cow, goat, and sheep milk. That mix gives it a richer, more complex profile that paired wonderfully with the pasta.
The pomodoro salad offered a seasonal, refreshing contrast: heirloom tomatoes, cucumber, red onion, and arugula with feta and Barolo vinegar. After a string of rich, cheesy courses, this simple salad served as an effective palate cleanser.
Then we moved on to secondi — yes, we started with five appetizers and continued with multiple mains.
The nightly risotto arrived topped with a puff pastry filled with chicken thigh and mushrooms. The risotto itself was generously cheesy with an ideal al dente texture — slightly firm and perfectly cooked.
Another tajarin dish featured the same thin fresh noodles dressed in a meat ragu. The pasta was excellent; my only wish was for a touch more ragu to match the noodles.
My favorite main was the tagliata, a Piemontese New York strip steak served medium-rare with gorgonzola, Madeira glaze, and extra-crispy potatoes. In a city full of steakhouses, this preparation held its own: tender, well-seasoned, and satisfying. The crispy potatoes were a playful, tasty accompaniment.
The crespella, the vegetarian entree, was one of the most creative dishes we tried. Delicate crepes were filled with peas, asparagus, goat cheese, and wild mushrooms, dressed with a spicy leek fonduta and finished with a crunchy whole-grain granola. The unexpected heat from peppers gave the dish a subtle, nearly Southwestern edge that the leek fonduta balanced nicely.
We regrettably did not leave room for dessert, though the menu includes tempting options.
Osteria Langhe is an excellent choice if you want to explore Italian cuisine beyond the familiar red-sauce classics common in America. The food felt sincere and lovingly prepared — a reflection of Aldo’s passion and Chef Grant’s thoughtful execution. We left satisfied and eager to return.
Osteria Langhe’s address is 2824 West Armitage. They accept reservations.